Stuffed Animal Storage

What you'll need:

• (2) 3M Command strip hooks
• (2) shower hooks or rings of some type (metal would be fine, just make sure they fit in the command strip hook; I used the clear so it can't be seen as well)
• 1/2 yard of fabric (either 1/4 yard of one and 1/4 yard of another or just 1/2 yard of one single fabric - I choose two different fabrics)
• Basic sewing supplies
• Abundance of stuffed animals! 

Here's how:

Iron your fabric and sew a nice hem on the top of the front piece of fabric. You could do this with the back piece also, but I'm lazy and it's not going to be seen as much, so I just left it.

Lay two pieces of fabric right sides together. (Or if you are using one whole piece of fabric, just fold it in half right sides together.) 

If you have a serger, use it here! I don't so I just did a zig zag stitch down the left side, across the bottom and then up the right side. I followed by doing a straight stitch on the inside of my zig zag for a little extra support.

Notice how I curved the corners, you don't have to do this, but I did.

Now for adding the rings.
Figure out just where you want them by doing a little something like this:

And sew ensuring you leave enough room for the ring to fit though. Give it a little more room than you would think - trust me on this one! 

 Slip the ring on through...

...and VOILA! Do this on both sides and you're almost done!

Hang the 3M strips so they are level and hang the fabric up! I would recommend just hanging the fabric and leaving it alone for a while so the 3M strips can really adhere to the wall before adding stuffed animals. I left mine overnight and really tested it out in the morning. So far, it hasn't fallen down!

** Note: I only recommend putting this in a child's room if you know they won't harm themselves with it somehow! 

Child's Library Bag

This is essentially the same as my Reversible Library Bag, but I've added a spot for a library card and pencils - making it not reversible. But you don't have to add the pocket so that it can be reversible! This bag is also smaller than the adult one. Please refer to the tutorial here if you need more pictures - it has step by step pictures. The only ones in this tutorial are of additions to the bag. Now, let's get started!


What you'll need:

• 1 fabric strip for the contrast strip on the front, 5" x 12"
• 1 fabric strip for the left front, 4.5" x 12" 
• 1 fabric strip for the right front, 8" x 12"
• 1 piece of fabric for the back, 16.5" x 12" 
• 2 pieces of fabric for the lining, each 16.5" x 12" 
• 4 pieces of fabric for the straps, each 1" x 18"
• 4 pieces of fusible interfacing for the straps, each 1" x 18" (optional)
• 1 piece of fabric for pocket, 5" x 8"

If you don't want to have a contrast strip, just replace the contrast strip, and the left and right front pieces with a front panel measured at 16.5" x 12".

Here's how:

Iron your fabric and cut out all pieces.

Place your contrast strip and left front piece right sides together and sew. Press the seam open.

Place your right front piece right sides together with the contrast strip and sew together. Press seam open.

Place your bag front right sides together with the bag back. Sew together along the SIDES and BOTTOM. Not the top!

Creating the gussets:
Fold the bag so the side seams are centered on the top and bottom (on top of each other). This will make a point at the bottom of the bag. Measure 2" from the tip of the point and cut off in a straight line.

Pin each flap. Sew each corner, separately.

Onto the inside of the bag, the lining:
The pocket will go on the lining piece. First, fold over 1/4" of fabric on all four sides and press.

How I folded the corners:

Before sewing it on the lining, sew a straight line across the top of the pocket, so it looks finished and keeps the fabric folded. You want to do this first so it's not attached to the lining.

Place it where you want it to be on the lining and sew down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side. Do not sew the top.

Then measure 1 1/2" over and sew down once and again another 1 1/2" over from that spot. This is for the pencils!

Place the two lining pieces right sides together and sew along the sides and bottom, just as you did the outside of the bag.

Now create the gussets just as you did for the outside of the bag - Side seams together, make a point, measure 2" up and cut a straight line. Pin and sew each flap.

Straps:
Fold each strap lengthwise wrong sides together and press.

Open the fold. Place interfacing above crease.

Fold fabric over interfacing and press. Place another interfacing strip below the crease and do the same for the bottom half of the fabric.

Fold strap in half at the crease and press. 

Sew strap along the folded edge and along the open edge to close it up. Repeat on opposite strap.

Pin one strap to the front of the bag, each end 3 1/2" from the sides. The bag is outside out now! The strap will lay on the outside of the bag once sewn on, until the lining is in. Sew in place. Repeat on the back side of the bag with other strap. Make sure you don't catch the other side of the bag when sewing the strap on.

Insert the outside bag into the lining, with the right sides touching. The straps go inside, too.

 Line up the side seams and pin in place. Sew together, leaving a 3" section open on the back. Flip it right side out now, through the opening you just left.

Tuck the lining to the inside of the bag. Press, tucking the raw edges of your open stitch to the inside of the bag. Edge stitch around the top of the bag to close up the opening and give it a nice finished look. Make sure the straps stay out of the way when you top stitch.

Reversible Library Bag

What you'll need:

• 1 fabric strip for the contrast strip on the front, 5" x 15"
• 1 fabric strip for the left front, 4.5" x 15" 
• 1 fabric strip for the right front, 8" x 15"
• 1 piece of fabric for the back, 16.5" x 15"
• 2 pieces of fabric for the lining, each 16.5" x 15" 
• 4 pieces of fabric for the straps, each 1" x 18"
• 4 pieces of fusible interfacing for the straps, each 1" x 18" (optional)

Here's How:
Iron your fabric and cut out all pieces.

Place your contrast strip and left front piece right sides together and sew. Press the seam open.

Place your right front piece right sides together with the contrast strip and sew together. Press seam open.

I did a decorative edge stitch on the front at this point, but this is optional.

Place your bag front right sides together with the bag back. Sew together along the SIDES and BOTTOM. Not the top!

Creating the gussets:
Fold the bag so the side seams are centered on the top and bottom (on top of each other). This will make a point at the bottom of the bag. Measure 2" from the tip of the point and cut off in a straight line.

Pin each flap.

Sew each corner, separately. This is what your bag should look like at this point.

Onto the inside of the bag, the lining:
Place the two lining pieces right sides together and sew along the sides and bottom, just as you did the outside of the bag.

Now create the gussets just as you did for the outside of the bag - Side seams together, make a point, measure 2" up and cut a straight line. Pin and sew each flap.

Straps:
1. Fold each strap lengthwise wrong sides together and press.

2. Open the fold. Place interfacing above crease.

3. Fold fabric over interfacing and press. Place another interfacing strip below the crease and do the same for the bottom half of the fabric.

4. The bottom strap is what it should look like.

5. Fold strap in half at the crease and press.

Sew strap along the folded edge and along the open edge to close it up. Repeat on opposite strap.

Pin one strap to the front of the bag, each end 3 1/2" from the sides. Notice the bag is outside out now! The strap will lay on the outside of the bag once sewn on, until the lining is in. Sew in place. Repeat on the back side of the bag with other strap. Make sure you don't catch the other side of the bag when sewing the strap on.

Insert the outside bag into the lining, with the right sides touching. The straps go inside, too.

 Line up the side seams and pin in place. Sew together, leaving a 3" section open on the back. Flip it right side out now, through the opening you just left.

Tuck the lining to the inside of the bag. Press, tucking the raw edges of your open stitch to the inside of the bag. Edge stitch around the top of the bag to close up the opening and give it a nice finished look. Make sure the straps stay out of the way when you top stitch.

Reversible Coffee Cozy

Well, this project seemed easy - but I just couldn't get it! I threw my first three attempts away! I have no clue why I couldn't wrap my brain around it! Especially because, in the end, it's actually quite easy!

Hopefully the pain I went through for this will turn out a really great and well explained tutorial!

Here's what you'll need:

- Two coordinating fabrics (1/4 yard each)
- Insul-Bright (1/4 yard)
- 2 buttons
- Elastic
- Standard sewing equipment (Machine, rotary cutter/mat, tracing paper, pins)
- Cozy pattern or cardboard cozy to trace

For the fabric, I traced around a cardboard cozy I already had and added 1/4" all the way around. Then for the Insul-Bright, I traced around the cardboard without adding anything. I did it on plain paper and will save it for more cozies. 


Here's how:
Trace your template on the two fabrics and Insul-Bright. Cut it out. Cut your elastic 4 -5 inches long.

Make a loop with your elastic and lay the loop side on the right side of the fabric and on the inside on the fabric. 

Pin. Then sew across the elastic back and forth a few times to secure it on there.

Lay your fabric right sides together, making sure the loop is in between them and all you see is the tails of the elastic. Then lay the Insul-Bright down against the wrong side of one of the fabrics. This should be the order: 

Pin!!! With it this thick, pinning should be required! 

Start sewing from the bottom and go around, ensuring to leave a space big enough for you to flip it right side out! I usually do a reverse stitch at the beginning and end so it doesn't come unraveled as I flip.

For turning corners, make sure your needle is in the down position. Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric. You can manually put the needle down by turning the wheel on right side of your machine towards you.

Take care to clean up an Insul-Bright "dust" from your machine - it can be nasty!

Cut the corners off.  

Flip it right side out. Use either dull scissors or a point turner to get the corners all flipped correctly.

I hadn't cut off the corner yet, but if you look closely at the bottom, you can see where I left a gap for flipping.

Iron it and sew a top stitch all the way around. It can be a little rough with two layers of cotton, plus the batting, so take it slow! I used a seam ripper to get that little extra thread off when I was done, but scissors will work too. I just think the seam ripper gets closer to the fabric.

Now for the buttons! 

Fold your cozy so the ends meet and put a pencil through the loop. 

Make a mark at the farthest point the elastic reaches WITHOUT stretching it. This is where you will sew the buttons.

If you know how to sew on buttons, go for it! I didn't and had to look it up, so if you don't want to go searching around for how to do it - I added these instructions.

I would suggest using smaller buttons, it makes it easier to finish off the button at the end. I learned this the hard way, unfortunately.

Thread your needle, and tie a knot at the end. Push it through your mark on the fabric and then add a button on the side without the knot. Then go back through and add the button on the other side. Back and forth until you feel the buttons are secure enough. Anywhere from 6-10 times depending on a two-hole or four-hole buttons. I usually do it way more than I need to. Then on your last stitch, go through one button and out the fabric on the other side (not through the button though). 

I pulled on the buttons a little bit to loosen them up so I could get the elastic around them. Now, using the extra thread, wrap it around the thread between button and material about 6 times.

It was really hard to go and back stitch on the other side to finish it off, since I have a button there, so I just slide the needle through the thread and a little fabric.

Then I wrapped it around one time and did that again then cut the thread. Hopefully it stays put! If this doesn't I will let you know! However, I don't see why it won't.  

I would love to see pictures of a coffee cozy you made using this tutorial!

Thanks for reading! Feel free to pin this on Pinterest, but please don't use my pictures for any other reason without my permission!


Mandy